I’ve been meaning to write an update, but I’m not agile enough actually to do things and to post things at the same time, and there’s been a lotta doin’. That and wanting to write the perfect pithy thing and letting perfect get in the way of okay, as in doing anything at all. That and lazy. My bit of OCD does not pair well with L-A-Z.
Big news here in Painswick is that it was named Gloucestershire Village of the Year 2025. There are many wonderful villages in Gloucestershire, so it must mean something. We are all so proud.
But honey it was so hot when I got here from London in June, it was like Tarboro in August. So of course I slept with the windows open, and one night every mosquito in Painswick flew in and bit me. This is gross but:
And to think this time last year I was in wool “jumper” and shivering. Anyway when I showed this arm to my friend Jonathan, he said I cahn’t remember when I’ve been bitten by a British mosquito. Classic. What is the world coming to when British mosquitos have lost their manners?
Painswick is full of artists, and since I’ve been here we’ve had two community “art walks” to studios and shops-cum-galleries. Last month I was especially charmed by the loose, expressive watercolors of Sarah Middleton who lives just down the street and is also an art historian and gives lectures and tours. I would love to paint like this:
Then friends Emma and Solomon who have Le Papillon coffee shop hung these gorgeous stained glass butterflies. I love butterflies, and so do Solomon and Emma seeing as they named their shop The Butterfly in French. The glass artist is Sarah Davis.
And here I thought I was moving to a sleepy little town…Girl they are busy here. And friendly. I talked about it when I was interviewed recently for the Times of London (woo!) in an article gauchely titled “Why Rich Americans are Invading the Cotswolds” (here if you want to see it) The title ugh, but the piece started with Eve Jobs’s wedding and all the celebrity hoopla, then it got to the regular people like me, not rich but just like it here.
But back to the friendly-busy: One evening I had a drink with friend Marion, who visits Stocks Cottage down the lane. Not the stocks themselves, but by the stocks, which we still have. Yes the kind they clamped you in for such offenses as petty theft, disorderly conduct, and gossiping—in other words, where you would go to catch up with your friends. But I haven’t seen anyone in there lately.
Fun fact, Marion’s son plays cricket for the Bahamas.
The neighbor across from Marion sings with the Painswick Community Singers, who recently gave a concert at the church (snippet in my Instagram here). Honey the church was packed, and it wasn’t all husbands and daughters either. Painswick shows up! I wouldn’t have missed it.
Another night I visited with neighbors (one of whom also sings with the aforementioned) who are re-doing the (enormous) old Court House, so-called because that is what it used to be. Bless these neighbors for restoring this house and its dignity and history with it, some of which dates to Medieval times. They are good sports to say the least, but most importantly good stewards. Stewards is all we are of these wonderful old houses . I don’t feel we own them. We merely occupy them, take care of them, keep becoming who we are in them, shaped perhaps in part because of them. Then we pass them on to what we hope are other loving hands and hearts.
These neighbors also have black labs named Tatti (short for Taittinger) and Cliquot (as in Veuve). You have to like people who name their dogs after Champagne.
Everyone has dogs. Except me. Which I lament. But in the meantime I love on other people’s. Tatti and Cliquot, of course, and my Most Excellent Handyman’s Cocker Spaniel, Millie.
One day I found Most Excellent staring out the window. I said what are you looking at? He said well I can’t quite make out. At first I thought they was dogs, but now I think … Well let’s go see I said. And sure enough. Alpacas out for a stroll, admiring the yew trees in the church yard. No need to go to Peru. You can have a whole alpaca experience right here in Painswick with Tibbiwell Alpacas.
Alpacas or not, a stroll is always a good idea and quite aerobic given the hills in this part of the Cotswolds. Our lovely, kempt houses and entrances make our village(s) appealing to visitors and residents alike, and of course are a point of pride but also of caring and respect. Keeping house is about more than fussiness. It is an act of respect for one’s self, one’s community, and for all those who are touched by it, even if they are just passing by. Or lord have mercy standing at your front door taking a photo. Which does happen, and that’s ok.
Would you believe there is another North Carolinian in Painswick?! Me either. More on that, et cetera next time…
Cheerio (which no one here says), moi
I spent an entire week in Painswick.
Loved every minute! So charming – it was a secret place back then. If I remember correctly Painswick is titled The Queen
of the Cotswolds. So envious of your
adventure!
You are correct, Nancy! Painswick is the Queen indeed. Thank you for writing. Come back to see us!
Pinehurst was over a hundred degrees for many days in a row this summer. I’m sure Tarboro was too. How did they survive without air conditioning back in the day?
Downloading the Times article immediately !
It was not easy…
Darling Frances, your OCD and LAZY did not get the better of this most delightful account of your new digs and charming village. You certainly made the right decision to set up house in the UK always live your intrepid adventures… hugs and xxx’s from Pebble Beach, Joanie
Aww – thank you, darling Joanie! It is pretty great in Pebble Beach, too, but I’m enjoying making my way here… Love to you, F
Frances, I enjoy your posts and am a huge Anglophile! I’m also a North Carolinian – born in Georgia, grew up in NC and live in VA. Quick immigration question – are you able to live year round in England or can you only stay for for 6 months at a time? Thank you, Melinda
Hi Melinda. Thank you so much for writing, my fellow Tarheel! I believe the law is less than 6 months. But double check me!
Love your notes
Thank you Pat 🙂
Wonderful post !
Thank you so much
love spending a brief respite with you this morning. so many things to think about. I met you in Jackson,Ms. i did not quite remember who was writing this email but now that i do i remember listening to you speak at the MMA and enjoyed meeting you. Love’d your piece.
Thank you Ms Patty! I loved being in Jackson with you all. X!
Wonderful! I am so glad I found your postings! I look forward to reading more!
Haay Pam! Im glad you found them too. Welcome 🙂
Drove by the entrance to your old ranch in Santa Ynez the other day and remember the day you had our Tuesday sketching group come to paint on the property. I still have the drawing of the olive trees. Enjoy reading about your new home and adventures in England and happy for you that it has all gone so well. The Tuesday group is still going and we now have a lot of really good artist and we are still meeting once a week..There are so many great views in the valley..we will never be able to do them all. Thanks for your messages…Sally Jones
Aww Sally, thank you so much for writing. Santa Ynez was indeed a beautiful place to make art and to make a life! Im glad to hear the sketching group is going so well! Send me sketch sometime, and please tell everyone hello for me!
How I enjoy hearing all about your adventures. I spent 2 fantastic weeks in London, Painswick & environs, Ireland and home to California.
Your comment on being a steward of the land and maintaining a legacy is close to my heart. I am doing just that with my family ranch in Kenwood, California. Jack London lived close by in Glen Ellen (Wolf House) where I used to ride my horse and revel in the quiet beauty of the Sonoma County landscape. You are an inspiration…
oxox Vera
Always delighted to receive your notes. Your travels and adventures bring light into the day. Best wishes.
So glad you caught us up on life in the Cotswolds – Wish you had time for more updates as we love each and everyone of Frances’ adventures – You enrich our lives. Who is MOST EXCELLENT?
Please send more pictures of your beautiful Lovedays house
Haha Most Excellent is a wonderful local handyman 🙂
You were one of my favorite guest speakers at the Decorative Arts Society, here in Newport Beach. I feel like I’ve been carried along in your pocket through your writing and adventures for many years. From Tarboro to Painswick, and to places in between and beyond, you’ve brought the true gifts of a Southern upbringing; Southern charm, good manners, and the gift for telling a good story. Painswick is indeed lucky to have your flair for design, your can do spirit, and your energy that rivals that of the Energizer Bunny!
Rachel thank you so so much. This is the sweetest thing and you are a dear to take the time to write it. It means the world. I loved being in Newport Beach as well and when I have a new book I will hope to be asked back 😉
I am SO disappointed to see the bloody mosquitos are not more polite in the Motherland. That really surprised me for some reason.Hope you also don’t have Chiggers, (the mosquitos’ redneck cousins).
I can’t wait to catch up with your posts. Love that you are adding this adventure to your collection! And love your line about OCD being the enemy of getting anything done. I too am a dysfunctional perfectionist…until I run out of time! Please keep the most entertaining reports coming! You crack me up!!! xo
Becky omg YOU crack ME up. And girl I hear you on the OCD… “til I run out of time” at which point one becomes a laser-guided, heat-seeking missile. What is that about? Miss you Xo
Lady Frances!!! Delighted by your cozy comfy cataloguing of the comings and goings of Painswick … The Queen of the Cotswolds!!!! If I lived there that would be at the top of all my stationery… perhaps I would co-sponsor a charity event with you where all the men of the Cotswolds from all walks of life compete for that titile!!!! ( talent/evening gown/ answer to a question etc.) Think of the money we will raise for Alpaca Rescue!