(So Good You Want to) Slap Yo’ Mama

The last time I was in LA for meetings I spied this food truck parked along the street. It must be good.

Slap Yo' Mama food truck in LA

This is a serious endorsement.


A hundred years ago when I was working for Style Weekly in Richmond, I laughed out loud reading a restaurant review by the brilliant and adorable George Stoddart – no longer with us, alas – who wrote that something (I’ve forgotten) “was so good it’ll make you want to slap your grandma.” Well I’ve been saying it ever since, albeit sparingly, as the expression signifies the highest praise – the equivalent of Lin on Dancing With the Stars awarding a “10.”

Now with Mother’s Day just behind us… Heck, even if the food isn’t good, I bet the people running it are a hoot. I mean, who would name a business “Slap Yo’ Mama”? I want to meet them.

May you this week eat, do, make, see, feel, hear, touch something so good you’ll want to… you know.

Posted in Adventure & Travel, Blog, Food & Recipes, Insight & Inspiration | 9 comments

Deviled Eggs for Lunch

Deviled Eggs for Lunch

I don't know why it has never occurred to me to have deviled eggs for lunch. I was trying to think of something funny to say after that but I couldn't. Deviled eggs aren't that funny I guess, but they're good. And it seems they have acquired a certain glamour. Rather like  macaroni & cheese which you find in all sorts of high places now, sometimes with lobster. Last Saturday was the most beautiful day in New York, and I treated myself to the wonderful drawings on exhibit at the Morgan Library. And then I sat in the Renzo Piano-designed atrium to have a bite. And there they were on the menu: deviled eggs. Like an (ironic) angel sent them. Just the perfect thing. Even had a glass of wine and a coffee afterward. It felt like the biggest splurge - and vaguely French, somehow, sitting at the little table in the indoor-outdoor cafe watching the people go by. I grew a beret. I said merci to the waiter. I am crazy about the Morgan. So accessible and interesting and sometimes just slightly obscure--until you understand what the exhibit's about and then you can't believe you didn't know all along about the influence of Hudson River School artists and Japanese landscape drawings on the work of artist and collector Dan Flavin. Or what a rich artistic flourishing there was in 17th century Holland, when the Dutch were seriously rocking, in  Rembrandt's World-Dutch Drawings from the Clement C. Moore Collection. But back to the eggs and the brilliance of them and nothing else for a light lunch. The other day I picked up the April issue of Every Day with Rachael Ray. She has such a twinkle. In it was a feature on "Deviled Eggs 10 Ways." Rachael is something of a connoisseur of stuffed eggs, apparently, and this entire post has turned into a sort of culinary kismet. Here are Rachael's recipes and wisdom for deviled eggs. I haven't tried Rachel's yet, but I have tried Ina Garten's with smoked salmon and salmon caviar on top, and they are yum de la yum (French). Here's a 5-minute video of Ina making her smoked salmon deviled eggs, including a primer on how to boil them properly. Spoiler alert: place in pan and cover with cold water. Bring to boil. Turn off and let stand for 5 minutes. Then rinse and immerse in cold water for 2 minutes. Boom. I'm just remembering my godmother gave me an entire cookbook about deviled eggs, and it's fab: Deviled Eggs: 50 Recipes From Simple to Sassy, by Debbie Moose. The next day I met a friend for lunch at Bergdorf's, and guess what they had on the menu. Um-hmm. But I was more in the mood for a burger and fries. No joy. They did, however, have mac & cheese, with lobster.    

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Posted in Blog, Food & Recipes, Sketches, Paintings & Projects | 11 comments

Possibly the Best Pasta Ever

Possibly the Best Pasta Ever

I have eaten this pasta for 3 of the last 4 days and still want more. So dang good and not one of the same old recipes. This one, oh, this one will make you want to slap your grandma. It's a smokey-sweet-savory mixture of sausage, caramelized onion and fennel, asparagus, artichoke hearts, spinach, olives, a hint of crushed walnuts and golden raisins, feta cheese and a squeeze of lemon juice. "Who would think of this?" my Cowboy might say though usually in reference to politicians, not pasta. Chef Stephanie Valentine, that's who. Yes ladies and gentlemen, Rancho La Zaca's own, right here on the outskirts of Los Olivos, California, population 1,000. It's long-ish list of ingredients, but there will not be a Spanish Inquisition if you omit one or several. If you do try it just this way, however, prepare to bust with joy. Or burst. That said, Steph simply uses the caramelized onion-fennel mixture as a base. She even likes it as a sauce on its own, and I do not question her in such matters. You can certainly go vegetarian, minus the sausage and/or the cheese; and the vegetables and herbs can vary. The whiffs of walnuts, olives, and raisins do lend a certain je ne sais quoi, but it would still be good without. The pasta used here is farro pizzichi, which I reckon they do not carry at the Piggly Wiggly in Tarboro. So you could also use farfalle (bowtie), penne, fusilli, whateveri. I would not recommend a linguini or fettucini type noodle, because when cooked and set aside it will stick together and not handle as well as the piece-y kind. Doesn't have to be whole grain, either, but it's healthier. Just sayin. Pasta with Sausage, Vegetables, Feta, and Herbs Serves 4 Preparation time about an hour, but it's Easy 8 ounces pasta 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus a few tablespoons extra About 3/4 cup julienned onion About 1 cup thinly sliced fennel 1/2 to 3/4 pound bulk sausage 1 clove garlic, minced 1 shallot, minced 1 cooked artichoke heart, chopped; or 1/2 cup frozen artichoke hearts 1/2 cup chopped fresh asparagus (in 1-inch pieces) 1/4 cup crushed walnuts 5 green olives, pitted and julienned 1 teaspoon chopped golden raisins 1 bunch spinach, or about 2 cups packed leaves, stemmed and cleaned 1 or 2 lemons 1/2 to 1/3 cup chicken stock (or white or red wine) A handful of herbs--whatever you have--basil, parsley, rosemary, thyme, chives Salt and pepper Bring a large pot of water to boil and add a buncha salt. Cook pasta according to package directions, drain and set aside. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat, and add onion and fennel. Reduce heat and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 45 minutes. This caramelizing process "sweats" the liquid from the vegetables and concentrates their flavors into indescribable deliciousness. In a separate pan, brown and cook the sausage, breaking it into bite-size chunks, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, shallot, artichoke hearts, and asparagus, and cook another 3 minutes. Add walnuts, raisins, and olives and cook 2 minutes more. Add spinach leaves and the onion-fennel mixture and stir another minute or so for the spinach to cook through. Add chicken stock and pasta, and season with the juice of 1 or 2 lemons and another glug of olive oil, give or take 1/3 cup. Season with salt and pepper and crumble feta on top. Mmm-mmm!

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Posted in Blog, Entertaining, Food & Recipes | 10 comments

Last Taco Night–Recipe Included

Last Taco Night–Recipe Included

Tragic. The end of an era. Along with the hiatus of Brothers Restaurant in the fabled Mattei's Tavern in Los Olivos, comes the end of Taco Night. Gaining steadily in popularity since its instigation on Thursdays many moons ago, Taco Night had arguably become a center of social life in the Valley, right up there with... Well I can't think of... Okay right up there with the Tales From the Tavern concert series at the Maverick saloon in Santa Ynez. And that is saying something. Why one couple even came last night all dressed up--she in a long dress and he in a suit--and took pictures of each other. I took one of His Grace, who was obviously not very into it. He was probably thinking he should have dressed up too. Los Olivos and surrounding communities are in Santa Barbara County and had their 15 minutes of fame as locations for the indie hit movie Sideways. The storied Mattei's began in 1886 as a stagecoach stop, a restaurant and a small inn. We hear that brothers Matt and Jeff Nichols will re-open their restaurant in the form of the old Red Barn in Santa Ynez, and it can't be too soon. We don't have that many choices around here. The historic Mattei's will be closed for a two-year renovation. Meanwhile here is the recipe for Mattei's famed Filet Mignon Crispy Tacos. And click here to get a copy of Brothers Cuisine--Recipes from Santa Barbara, California, wine country. It's a beaut. Filet Mignon Tacos Makes 10 to 12 tacos Chipotle puree: 1 (7-ounce) can chipotle chiles ½ cup water Taco meat: 1 ½ pounds filet mignon, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons corn oil 2 tablespoons chipotle puree ½ medium yellow onion, diced 1 jalapeño, diced Fresh tomato salsa: 8 Roma tomatoes, diced ½ yellow onion, diced 1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 3 limes Kosher salt White pepper Taco slaw: ½ head Napa cabbage, thinly sliced 1 bunch green onions, finely sliced on a bias Whole leaves from 1 bunch cilantro 12 crisp taco shells or soft corn tortillas Grated aged white Cheddar cheese, about 1/2 pound Bottled hot sauce 1. To make the chipotle puree: In a blender, puree the chiles with the water until smooth. 2. To make the taco meat: Combine the filet mignon, salt, coriander, cumin and pepper in a bowl and mix well to coat the beef. Heat the corn oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. When hot, spread the seasoned beef in the pan and do not move. This will sear one side of the meat. After 1 minute, toss the meat to brown and cook the other sides. Mix in 2 tablespoons or more of the chipotle puree and toss to coat. Remove from the heat and place in a bowl. 3. In the same pan over medium heat, sauté the onion and jalapeño until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion mixture to the meat and mix until well combined. Set aside. 4. To make the tomato salsa, mix the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, lemon juice and lime juice in a bowl. Season with salt and white pepper. Refrigerate. 5. To make the taco slaw, mix the cabbage, green onions and cilantro leaves in a bowl. Set aside. 6. To serve, reheat the taco meat. Spoon the meat into warm crisp taco shells or warm soft corn tortillas. Sprinkle the grated white cheddar over the beef. Top with the cabbage slaw and tomato salsa. Serve with your favorite hot sauce.

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Posted in Blog, Food & Recipes | 14 comments

Got a Beef? Here’s Just the Thing:

Got a Beef? Here’s Just the Thing:

Ooh, child, this is something good. And if you're looking for the perfect Valentine's Day dinner, you've found it. You can make it in advance, freeze it if you like, and it requires no last minute fiddling. But most importantly it would pair well with a chocolate dessert. A girl has her priorities.

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Posted in Blog, Entertaining, Food & Recipes | 4 comments